Exploring Lake Moeraki, New Zealand
Find a secluded beach on the outer rim of the rainforest and let your thoughts drift across the foaming surf of the Tasman Sea as it assaults the coastline in a hypnotic showcase of power and sound. Take a while after dinner to wander along the water's edge and, aided by the absence of any kind of light pollution, gaze in wonder at a jewel-encrusted sky that appears to open up every single star in the galaxy to the human eye. There's too much to take in to spend your time dozing the way those Maoris might expect, but use the silence to reflect. Use the surroundings to remind you of nature's true beauty and value. And use the rare freedom from the technology of mobile phone and television to consider whether those gadgets really must maintain such a central role in your existence when the inevitable return to the urban sprawl arrives.
Lake Moeraki is a place to revel in the simple pleasures and enjoy rewards that money can't buy. When it comes to finding a base from which to embark upon your personal voyages of discovery, there is nowhere better than Wilderness Lodge. Owned and run by conservationists, it is situated at the heart of a 1000-year-old rainforest and uses the natural energy of the water to produce 80 per cent of its electricity through a high-tech hydro-electric generator.
Your mobile won't pick up a signal, so don't even think about switching it on and, as modern and comfortable as the rooms are, there are no TVs. With an open fire in the ultra-comfy lounge of the main building and unlimited tea and coffee along with a well-stocked bar, the much-neglected art of conversation will come to the fore with fellow guests almost sure to get involved in the joy of describing the day's adventures. What's more, a few days in this oasis of calm won't cost you the earth, far from it.
The combined package of breakfast, dinner, kayaking expeditions and complimentary guided tours to encounter everything from glow-worms to birdlife represents terrific value and it says much for the spirit of the resort that the operators don't seek to cash in on the fact they have a monopoly on trade. The Riverside Restaurant serves whitebait from the river, seafood from the coast and game from the forest and offers a menu to excite both taste buds and imagination.
The Red Dog Saloon, which served as an illegal bar for workers constructing the highway from nearby Haast in the sixties, has a map of the constellations to allow you to make the very most of the mind-blowing light show that is the night sky. The Southern Cross stands out like a beacon, but the longer you stare into the heavens, the more you see. No wonder the view has entranced everyone from the very first Polynesian adventurers. Following the network of pathways through the resplendent flora and fauna allows you to pretend you are some sort of pioneer, too. And, believe me, no more than 40 minutes away from HQ lies a wondrous bounty in the form of Monro Beach.
You will hear the roar of the sea long before you emerge from the rainforest canopy and those golden sands, free of human contact for days, serve as the perfect spot to watch the waves crash off a host of uniquely-patterned rock structures. Crested penguins are in season from August until December, but be warned the sandflies are there all year round. Repellent is a must. The only other things you'll need are an open mind, an interest in the world around you and a stiff upper lip to cope with the trauma of eventually having to leave this little piece of paradise behind.
