Holy Order

Debbie Ward is won over by temples, massages and night markets in Thailand’s north.

I had been told that a female should never touch a Buddhist monk but observing this taboo proved quite a challenge at Chiang Mai’s Doi Suthep temple. This is the city’s most revered place of worship so monks are plentiful, their saffron robes flashing brightly among the throng. I checked for monks within elbow range whenever I raised my camera and dodged contact with shaven heads as they emerged from ancient doorways.

Safely positioned against a wall I was able to fully absorb the temple’s ornate carved eaves strung with clusters of bells, and admire the squat Buddhas adorned with square-shaped offerings of gold leaf. Flanked by four golden umbrellas, Doi Suthep’s shimmering central chedi is said to contain holy relics and I watched as devotees placed their ritual circles around it, pressing the stems of lotus blossom between their palms.

A visit to Doi Suthep is one of the highlights of a visit to Chiang Mai. One of over 300 temples in Thailand’s second city, none can match its location atop a mountain with sweeping views over the urban sprawl.

The monks may have renounced worldly goods but as I weaved through the throng of shoppers at Chiang Mai’s famous night bazaar, nothing could have been further from my own mind. With tasty snacks, steaming bowls of Thai curry, cold Singha beer and manicures and massages on offer for the shopped-out, it makes for a fun night out. I bought a wooden truck for my nephew from a handmade toy stall and some painted bangles and silk scarves for friends. Shunning the big-brand fakes I settled on a handmade cotton dress from a local designer. Itwas a size too big but I could have it altered quickly by the Bangkok tailor who was already running me up a pair of chiffon blouses. My entire market haul cost me less than £20.

The north is Thailand’s art and crafts centre and many of the best trinkets and materials are found in and around Chiang Mai – not only in its markets but the outlying villages that specialise in products like painted umbrellas or wood carvings. Thailand has seen a design renaissance in recent years and you’ll find its chic side showcased in Chiang Mai’s trendy boutiques, cafés and accommodation – including the stylish Rachamanka and design-led D2 hotels.

Chiang Mai is relaxed enough for families to linger in (kids will love the elephant sanctuaries and the world’s longest viewing tunnels at the new aquarium) and is a gateway to some fantastic eco-experiences in the green and mountainous north. If you’re seeking up-and-coming areas, the artist hangout of Pai in Mae Hong Son province, and Isan, Thailand’s northeast region with its national parks and agricultural landscapes, are lesser-known rural retreats well worth considering. For treks to hill-tribe villages, rafting and even white-water rafting, the town of Chiang Rai, just over a hundred miles north of Chiang Mai, is an established base.

You can even learn how to care for and command elephants on a three-day mahout training course at the Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa. The Golden Triangle is where Thailand, Burma and Laos meet in scenic splendour around the mighty Mekong. Infused with a feeling of well being from the hour-long Thai massage I’d just had (for less than £10), I journeyed one morning by longtail boat along one of the river’s tributaries. The mist hung in horizontal ribbons as we zipped along towards a tribal village. Stretching into the distance were green fields, punctuated by the same craggy limestone outcrops for which southern beach resorts like Krabi are famed. With my back resting against a padded wooden seat (rather than a sandy beach) I gazed at these iconic karsts, incongruous in their countryside setting, and realised you don’t need a beach to feel utterly relaxed in Thailand.

On to the Islands....

Ko Chang

A backpacker secret until fairly recently, Ko Chang is Thailand’s second biggest island after Phuket. Now you can enjoy its unspoilt beaches and mountainous national park while staying in a smart hotel. Elephant treks through Chang’s lush interior are popular, or you can island-hop among its neighbours – there are more than 50 in the archipelago.

Ko Lanta

You could go trekking, or kayaking through mangroves on Ko Lanta, but most visitors just kick back on the unspoilt beaches. A clutch of upmarket resorts have established themselves on this lush, laid-back island – including the romantic Pimalai Resort and Spa, the family-friendly Cha-da Beach and the boutique Layana. Situated in the Andaman Sea, the island can easily be twinned with Krabi or Phuket.

Ko Phi Phi

The twin islands of Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Le were an island-hopping favourite long before Maya Bay (Phi Phi Le) took a starring role in The Beach. Day trips from Phuket and Krabi take in the top snorkelling spots plus scenic highlights including the Viking Cave’s rock art but it’s easy to stay longer. Barefoot-chic resort the Zeavola is a favourite among back-to-nature honeymooners.

Ko Samet

The nearest offshore hideaway to the capital Bangkok, residents know Samet (or Samed) as a handy weekend retreat. Now tourists are discovering for themselves this tiny, traffic-free, stress-free island. Samet is a boat ride from hedonistic Pattaya and its sheltered position within the Gulf of Thailand means it’s a good bet year-round.

Ko Racha and Ko Yao

Located within sight of Phuket, the twin Racha islands are a great spot for accessible diving and snorkelling. There is accommodation on the larger of the pair where minimalist design hotel The Racha is particularly feted. You can also stay on nearby Ko Yao Noi where, should you choose to leave your sun-lounger, you can cycle through a landscape of coconut plantations, paddy fields and fishing villages.

Samui, Ko Pha Ngan & Kao Tao

The island of Samui is among Thailand’s most popular resorts, with family attractions and nightlife should you want it and boho hangouts should you not. Unlike the rest of the country it sees its best weather in summer, making it great for honeymooners and families. Neighbouring Ko Pha Ngan is famed for its full moon parties while Kao Tao’s shallow reefs are perfect for beginner divers.